What Does Niacinamide Do for Your Skin?
By Aristotle Cosmetics. . 6 min read.
Niacinamide has become one of the most familiar names on an ingredient list. Its popularity is not simply a trend: it is one of the better studied cosmetic ingredients, with laboratory and clinical research behind several of its uses. Here is what it is, what the evidence suggests, and where its limits are.
What niacinamide is
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a water-soluble form of vitamin B3. In the body it is a building block of NAD+ and NADP+, coenzymes that cells rely on for energy metabolism and for many protective and repair processes. In skincare it is valued because it is stable, compatible with many other ingredients, and generally well tolerated.
It is important to separate niacinamide from niacin (nicotinic acid). They are related, but niacin is associated with flushing of the skin, while niacinamide does not typically cause that reaction.
How niacinamide is used in skincare formulations
Because it dissolves readily in water, niacinamide is most often found in serums, moisturizers and other water-based formulas. Formulators favor it in part because it remains stable in light and at a wide range of pH levels, which makes it a practical partner for other ingredients in a multi-ingredient product.
Niacinamide and the skin barrier
The outermost layer of skin, the stratum corneum, works like a wall of cells held together by lipids such as ceramides. This barrier helps skin hold on to water and keep irritants out.
In laboratory research, nicotinamide increased the production of ceramides and other barrier lipids in human skin cells, and topical application was associated with reduced water loss through the skin. A separate clinical study of a niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer reported improvements in measures of barrier function in people with rosacea. These findings help explain why niacinamide is so often associated with barrier support, while reminding us that results come from specific formulas and study conditions.
Uneven tone and the appearance of dark spots
Skin tone is influenced by melanin, the pigment produced by cells called melanocytes and transferred to surrounding skin cells. Research has shown that niacinamide can reduce this transfer of pigment in laboratory models, and controlled clinical studies reported that topical niacinamide reduced the appearance of hyperpigmentation compared with a formula without it.
This is why niacinamide is often described as helping to improve the appearance of uneven tone. It does not bleach skin, and visible changes in studies developed over a period of weeks with consistent use.
Texture, fine lines and overall appearance
In a 12-week, placebo-controlled, split-face clinical study, a topical niacinamide formula improved the appearance of several signs associated with aging skin, including fine lines, red blotchiness, sallowness and hyperpigmented spots. A later scientific review summarized a broader body of evidence supporting niacinamide for the appearance of skin aging and pigmentation.
What the research does and does not tell us
The studies above tested particular concentrations in particular formulas. Their results cannot automatically be transferred to every product that contains niacinamide. How much of an ingredient is present, what it is combined with, and how consistently a product is used all influence the outcome.
For that reason, we describe niacinamide in terms of what the published research supports, and we do not present those studies as clinical testing of any Aristotle Cosmetics product.
Considerations for sensitive skin
Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, which is one reason it is so widely used. Even so, any ingredient or finished product can cause irritation for some people. The American Academy of Dermatology suggests testing a new product on a small area of skin for several days before applying it to your face, and stopping use if redness, itching or swelling appears.
Niacinamide in Brightening Silk Glass Serum
Niacinamide is one of the highlighted ingredients in Brightening Silk Glass Serum, alongside two forms of vitamin C and a group of antioxidant and conditioning ingredients. Together, the formula is designed to help improve the appearance of uneven tone, dullness and skin texture. Learn how each highlighted ingredient fits together in The Science Behind Brightening Silk Glass Serum, or explore the different forms of vitamin C.
This article is for general education and is not medical advice. If you have a skin condition, known allergies, or concerns about an ingredient, speak with a qualified healthcare professional.
Sources
- Boo YC. Mechanistic basis and clinical evidence for the applications of nicotinamide (niacinamide) to control skin aging and pigmentation. Antioxidants. 2021;10(8):1315. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34439563/
- Tanno O, et al. Nicotinamide increases biosynthesis of ceramides as well as other stratum corneum lipids to improve the epidermal permeability barrier. British Journal of Dermatology. 2000;143(3):524-531. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/10971324/
- Draelos ZD, Ertel K, Berge C. Niacinamide-containing facial moisturizer improves skin barrier and benefits subjects with rosacea. Cutis. 2005;76(2):135-141. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16209160/
- Hakozaki T, et al. The effect of niacinamide on reducing cutaneous pigmentation and suppression of melanosome transfer. British Journal of Dermatology. 2002;147(1):20-31. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/12100180/
- Bissett DL, Oblong JE, Berge CA. Niacinamide: a B vitamin that improves aging facial skin appearance. Dermatologic Surgery. 2005;31(7 Pt 2):860-865. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/16029679/
- Harding CR. The stratum corneum: structure and function in health and disease. Dermatologic Therapy. 2004;17 Suppl 1:6-15. https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/14728694/
- American Academy of Dermatology. How to test skin care products. https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/skin-care-secrets/prevent-skin-problems/test-skin-care-products